e filth, but it is only in that class of
cars that you see anything of the vast number of poor farmers and
laborers. If they can not pay exorbitant rates, refined, educated
men and women are thrust into pens and seated face to face with the
smoking, drinking, carousing rabble. I have everywhere protested
against this outrage and urged the women to demand that the railway
companies should give them separate cars, with no smoking
allowed....

LEAMINGTON, October 1.

MY DEAR RACHEL: ... I must have told you of my good times at
Belfast with Miss Tod, who gave a reception for me and I had a
welcome all round.

Miss Osgood met me at Cork, and we went by rail to Macroom. Tuesday
morning we visited the convent, nuns' schools, and the poorhouse
with 400 helpless mortals, old and young; then took an Irish
jaunting-car, and were driven some forty miles through "the Gap" to
Glengariff. It rained almost all the way, much to our disgust. Next
morning we packed into two great stages with thirty or more others,
and started for the lakes of Killarney; but soon the rain poured
again, and as we were losing so much of the scenery we stopped
half-way at Kenmare. We visited the convent and the Mother Abbess
showed us every cranny. Thirty girls were at work on beautiful
Irish point and Limerick lace. These nuns have 400 pupils, and give
200 of the poorest their breakfast and lunch--porridge and a bit of
bread. At two we took stage again, the sky looked promising, but
alas! for half an hour it fairly poured. Then it grew lighter, and
we got very fine views of hills and dales. Killarney _is_
lovely....

Saturday I sauntered along the streets of Killarney, passed the
market, and saw all sorts of poor humanity coming in with their
cattle to sell or to buy. Many rode in two-wheeled carts without
seat or spring, drawn by little donkeys, and nearly all the women
and girls were bareheaded and barefooted. On the bridge I saw some
boys looking down. I looked too and there was a spectacle--a
ragged, bareheaded, barefooted woman tossing a wee baby over her
shoulders and trying to get her apron switched around to hold it
fast on her back. I heard her say to herself, "I'll niver do it,"
so I said, "Boys, one of you run down