Ireland, the Custom-House, and
Trinity College, are beautiful buildings; but I did not admire the
cathedrals and churches very much, after those of England. The church
of St. Anne is interesting, as containing the tomb of Felicia Hemans.
We drove about the town on a jaunting car, with a talkative driver,
seeing all the sights and listening to strange, wild legends. In the
pretty cemetery of Glasneven, we saw, through the grating of a vault,
the magnificent coffin which contains the body of Daniel O'Connell, the
great orator. We enjoyed most our drive in Phoenix Park, a noble
enclosure, filled with fine trees and shrubbery, flowers, birds, gentle
deer, and playful, brown-eyed fawns.
But if we liked the streets, buildings, and parka of Dublin, we liked
the _people_ better. Very courteous, generous, and cordial we found
all those to whose hospitality we had been commended--and warm at my
heart is now, and ever will be, the dear memory of my good Dublin
friends.
A pleasant excursion from the city is to the Bay, which is considered
one of the most beautiful in the world; and to Howth Harbor, formerly
the landing-place of the Dublin packets, but now superseded by Kingston.
The first object which strikes one on approaching Dublin by sea, is the
famous Hill of Howth, which rises bold and high, on the northern coast
of the bay, and stands like the great guardian and champion of Ireland.
The Dublin people are as proud of this as the Neapolitans are of Mount
Vesuvius, which overlooks their noble bay of Naples. "Ah, sure ma'am,"
said an Irish sailor,--"it's as fine an ilivation, barrin' a few
thousand feet of height, as that same smokin', rumblin' ould cratur,
an' a dale betther behaved."
At Howth there are some very interesting Druidical remains to be seen,
a fine old castle and an abbey, in which repose many brave and famous
knights--the Tristrams and St. Lawrences, barons of Howth.
There is a curious and romantic legend of Howth Castle, which I will
relate here.
GRACE O'MALLEY.
In the time of Queen Elizabeth, there was a celebrated woman living in
the province of Connaught, Ireland, named _Grana Uille_, or Grace
O'Malley. She was the chieftainess of the O'Malley's of Clare Island,
and called herself a princess, but she was most famed as a female
pirate-captain, or vi-_queen_, as, perhaps, she would have preferred to
be called.
She lived in rude, stormy times, when the Irish were nearly as wild and
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