m the west coast of Anglesea. Here we took a steamer
to cross the Irish channel.

We made the trip in about four hours; but they seemed to me no less
than twelve--for I was mortally sick. I thought at one time that I was
surely dying. I did not care much; people never do when they are
sea-sick; still, I thought I should prefer a more romantic sort of a
death, and I was heartily glad when I found myself on shore, at
Kingstown, seven miles below Dublin, where we took the railway for that
city. We arrived late at night, and drove to our hotel on a regular
Irish jaunting car. This is a very funny looking vehicle--low and
broad, with two wheels, concealed by the seats, which run lengthwise.
There is another kind, called the _inside car_. An Irishman once
explained the difference to an English traveller, in this way: "An
outside car, yer honor, has the wheels _inside_, and an inside car has
the wheels _outside_."

All Irish carmen drive furiously, and the cars go jumping and hopping
along, and spinning round the corners, at such a rate that one feels
rather nervous at first, and has no little difficulty in keeping on.
But like many other things, it's easy enough, when you get used to it.

We found Gresham's Hotel a very comfortable, pleasant place, and we
soon felt at home, though we saw none but Irish faces, and heard only
the Irish brogue around us; for those faces were smiling and cordial,
and that rich, musical brogue seemed bubbling up from kindly hearts.

I have not told you much about Wales in this chapter, because rushing
through the country, as I did, I really saw very little of it. The
people seemed quiet, cleanly, and industrious; but they did not look,
or dress at all like the English. I noticed that many of the women
seemed rather masculine in their tastes--wearing hats and coats like
the men, and that the children were dressed in an odd old-fashioned
way, and looked serious, shrewd, and mature--almost as though they were
a race of dwarfs. The Welsh language had to me a strange, harsh,
barbaric sound, and when listening to it, I realized for the first time
since I had left America, that I was indeed far away from home. I do
not doubt, however, but that if I had seen more of the Welsh, I should
have liked them heartily, for they are said to be very kindly, honest,
and hospitable. They are naturally brave and sturdy lovers of liberty.
In old times the English had a hard and tedious struggle with them,