ns and the thick part of the thighs. When the head is left on,
it should be brought round and fixed on to the point of the skewer.

[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGE.]

_Mode_.--When the bird is firmly and plumply trussed, roast it before a
nice bright fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before serving,
flour and froth it well. Dish it, and serve with gravy and bread sauce,
and send to table hot and quickly. A little of the gravy should be
poured over the bird.--See coloured plate, D1.

_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, is 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.

_Sufficient_,--2 for a dish.

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.

[Illustration: PARTRIDGES.]

THE PARTRIDGE.--This bird is to be found in nearly all the
temperate countries of Europe, but is most abundant in the
Ukraine, although it is unable to bear the extremes of climate,
whether hot or cold. It was formerly very common in France, and
is considered a table luxury in England. The instinct of this
bird is frequently exemplified in a remarkable manner, for the
preservation of its young. "I have seen it often," says a very
celebrated writer, and an accurate observer of nature, "and once
in particular, I saw an extraordinary instance of an old bird's
solicitude to save its brood. As I was hunting with a young
pointer, the dog ran on a brood of very small partridges; the
old bird cried, fluttered, and ran tumbling along just before
the dog's nose, till she had drawn him to a considerable
distance, when she took wing, and flew still further off, but
not out of the field; on this the dog returned to me, near the
place where the young ones lay concealed in the grass, which the
old bird no sooner perceived than she flew back to us, settled
just before the dog's nose again, and by rolling and tumbling
about, drew off his attention from her young, and thus preserved
her brood a second time. I have also seen, when a kite has been
hovering over a covey of young partridges, the old birds fly up
at the bird of prey, screaming and fighting with all their might
to preserve their brood." Partridges should be chosen young; if
old, they are valueless. The young ones are generally known by
their yellow legs and dark-coloured bills.

PHEASANT CUTLETS.

1040. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 pheasants, egg and bread crumbs, cayenne and
salt to taste,