was in auld lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments of the
youthful squire; but, until side-tables become universal, or till we see
the office of "grand carver" once more instituted, it will be well for
all to learn how to assist at the carving of this dish, which, if not
the most elegant in appearance, is a very general favourite. The hare,
having its head to the left, as shown in the woodcut, should be first
served by cutting slices from each side of the backbone, in the
direction of the lines from 3 to 4. After these prime parts are disposed
of, the leg should next be disengaged by cutting round the line
indicated by the figures 5 to 6. The shoulders will then be taken off by
passing the knife round from 7 to 8. The back of the hare should now be
divided by cutting quite through its spine, as shown by the line 1 to 2,
taking care to feel with the point of the knife for a joint where the
back may be readily penetrated. It is the usual plan not to serve any
bone in helping hare; and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legs
and placed alone on the plate. In large establishments, and where
men-cooks are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of the hare,
especially in old animals, is taken out, and then the process of carving
is, of course, considerably facilitated. A great point to be remembered
in connection with carving hare is, that plenty of gravy should
accompany each helping; otherwise this dish, which is naturally dry,
will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuffing is also
served with it; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and the
brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs.

PARTRIDGES.

[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGES.]

1057. There are several ways of carving this most familiar game bird.
The more usual and summary mode is to carry the knife sharply along the
top of the breastbone of the bird, and cut it quite through, thus
dividing it into two precisely equal and similar parts, in the same
manner as carving a pigeon, No. 1003. Another plan is to cut it into
three pieces; viz., by severing a small wing and leg on either side from
the body, by following the line 1 to 2 in the upper woodcut; thus making
2 helpings, when the breast will remain for a third plate. The most
elegant manner is that of thrusting back the body from the legs, and
then cutting through the breast in the direction shown by the line 1 to
2: this plan will give 4 or more