, and
serve with mushroom-sauce, sauce piquante, or brown gravy, in which a
few game-bones and trimmings have been stewed.

_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.

THE HEIGHT OF EXCELLENCE IN A PHEASANT.--Things edible have
their degrees of excellence under various circumstances: thus,
asparagus, capers, peas, and partridges are best when young.
Perfection in others is only reached when they attain maturity:
let us say, for example, melons and nearly all fruits (we must
except, perhaps, the medlar), with the majority of those animals
whose flesh we eat. But others, again, are not good until
decomposition is about to set in; and here we may mention
particularly the snipe and the pheasant. If the latter bird be
eaten so soon as three days after it has been killed, it then
has no peculiarity of flavour; a pullet would be more relished,
and a quail would surpass it in aroma. Kept, however, a proper
length of time,--and this can be ascertained by a slight smell
and change of colour,--then it becomes a highly, flavoured dish,
occupying, so to speak, the middle distance between chicken and
venison. It is difficult to define any exact time to "hang" a
pheasant; but any one possessed of the instincts of
gastronomical science, can at once detect the right moment when
a pheasant should be taken down, in the same way as a good cook
knows whether a bird should be removed from the spit, or have a
turn or two more.

TO DRESS PLOVERS.

1044. INGREDIENTS.--3 plovers, butter, flour, toasted bread.

_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose those that feel hard at the vent, as
that shows their fatness. There are three sorts,--the grey, green, and
bastard plover, or lapwing. They will keep good for some time, but if
very stale, the feet will be very dry. Plovers are scarcely fit for
anything but roasting; they are, however, sometimes stewed, or made into
a ragout, but this mode of cooking is not to be recommended.

_Mode_.--Pluck off the feathers, wipe the outside of the birds with a
damp cloth, and do not draw them; truss with the head under the wing,
put them down to a clear fire, and lay slices of moistened toast in the
dripping-pan, to catch the trail. Keep them _well basted_, dredge them
lightly with flour a few minutes before they are done, and let them be
nice