e house, and
let me feel, even if you only take a seat upon a chair for a moment,
that I have entertained you!"

Such hospitable intent was not to be withstood, and willingly enough we
went with him into his small and, as he said, very humble abode, feeling
how very touching and appealing it all was. We entered, our host saying
cheerfully, "Be good enough to walk on," and found ourselves in a very
bare and cheerless-looking parlour with stiff chairs, with black
horsehair seats, round the walls, and a bare table in the centre, upon
which stood a conventional and faded little basket of wax-flowers and
fruit under a glass shade. On looking round we saw the good Abbot had
disappeared, so we sat down and looked about us, hoping he had not gone
off to order food; but in an incredibly short time, as if he had been a
"lightning-change artist," he was back again. And what a transformation!
The dirty and faded brown cassock was gone, and a flowing rich black
robe had taken its place, a black mitre with dependent veil was upon his
head, a magnificent chain and cross hung from his neck, and,
thoroughly satisfied with his change, he looked as though he were
saying "Now we meet upon equal terms!" His boyish delight was good to
see as he said:--

"Now let me welcome you and greet you!" and he kissed me as other
bishops had done.

These embraces are no light ordeal, as the good clergy never shave or
cut their hair, and are very heavily bearded. But what of that, if one
can feel as I did that day, when driving off and waving our adieux, that
one had been breathing apostolic air, and had been very near in the
spirit to "Peter and John"?

It only remains to give my experience of a typical parish priest, and
then I shall feel that the Russian clergy have been fairly described.

Upon my arrival at the Spassky Mine, during my first journey in Siberia,
in the very heart of the Kirghese Steppes, the manager told me what had
passed between himself and the parish priest, kept there by his company
to minister to the labourers in the smelting works. These were all
Russians, though the labourers in the mine itself were chiefly Kirghese
and Mohammedans.

"You will be interested to hear that our bishop is coming to see us," he
had said by way of beginning.

"Your bishop! Where from and what for?"

"He is coming across the steppes, and from London, to give us services."

"You don't mean to say so!" was the startled exclamation. "I never hea