ey attire themselves fashionably
and take a stroll in the Plaza or a drive in the Alameda, which is the
Rotten Row of a Cuban town.

Whatever shopping Dona Mercedes contemplates is effected in the cool of
the early morning after her devotions at the church, whither she repairs
at the hour of six A.M. Church-going is a serious undertaking with the
good lady. Firstly, she and her daughters must be becomingly attired,
and on this occasion black lace veils are included in their toilettes.
Besides prayer-books, rosaries, and fans, the devotees must be provided
with small squares of carpet and toy-like chairs of papier mache inlaid
with gold and pearl ornaments. These articles of furniture are conveyed
to the sacred edifice by some young negress servants, for with the
exception of a few wooden benches, a Cuban church offers no relief to
the weary flesh.

Having entered the church, Dona Mercedes proceeds to moisten the tips
of her ungloved fingers in some holy water from a font, and after duly
crossing herself, extends her hand to her daughters, who touch it and
thus partake of the blessed liquid. The black attendants then spread the
fragments of carpet, place the chairs, and retire to a dark corner of
the building. The ceremonies begin. Dona Mercedes and her daughters
follow the ecclesiastic in their miniature prayer-books, and alternately
kneel and cross themselves when required to do so; gaze with a devout
expression at their favourite saint, and tell their beads; take a mental
note of their neighbours' dresses, fan themselves, and exchange nods of
recognition with acquaintances--till a little bell from one of the
side-chapels tinkles for the final ceremony of elevating the host.

Matins over, the ladies betake themselves to the principal
thoroughfares, where the best shops are to be found, and when their
purchases have been made they return home, calling on the way at the
houses of their friends.

When there is no performance at the theatre or the promenade in the
military square, Don Benigno holds a tertulia in his balcony.

A tertulia is a reception, or social gathering, and may be held at any
hour of the day; but the best time for a tertulia is the cool of the
evening.

The five o'clock dinner being over and digested, Don Benigno sallies
forth--cigar in mouth--upon his covered balcony, or coridor, as it is
called, which in length and breadth strikingly resembles the platform of
a small railway station.

'Traiga