ants.

The industries of Malta consist chiefly of its exquisitely made silver
and gold filagree work, and its rich and Spanish-like lace, which find
ready sale on the continent; its further exports being principally dried
fish, luscious oranges and fruits, and vegetables.

Labour is remarkably cheap, the Maltese living on a mere nothing. A
little rancid oil, shark, or any other half-putrid fish, a few olives,
sour wine, and bread, and they are well feasted. Hotel expenses are not
higher than on the Riviera; but amongst the best resident classes living
is rather expensive, especially in the matter of clothing, nearly every
article of which is imported from England. In my days, _gloves_ used to
be remarkably cheap, so much so that we could indulge in a fresh pair
every evening for the Opera, and the gloves, with admittance, did not
exceed the cost of an ordinary pair of gloves alone in England. The
opera was our chief delight, and we could sympathize with the Italians
in this pleasure.

One great drawback to visiting Malta is the fear of quarantine. Very
recently a young friend of mine, an Oxford man, experienced the bitter
disappointment of going all the way there, only to be "imprisoned" in
the lazaretto, and was only able to talk to his friend from a distance
of four yards, with a gen d'arme between them. Unfortunately, his time
was too short to allow of his seeing Malta after his release from
durance vile.

* * * * *

Having seen my wife off from Messina, I had arranged to go by steamer on
the following day to Palermo, but the stormy weather had delayed the
arrival of the vessel from Reggio, so I decided to go by rail instead,
and hurried to the station in a violent storm of rain and hail.

The route was so full of interest, and the views so enchanting, that I
did not regret the change in my plans. The coast scenery was grand and
beautiful. For miles, while circling round great Etna, we were passing
over vast fields of lava--the land tumbled about like the waves of a
tempestuous sea, as if recently thrown up by some mighty earthquake, and
all sombre-coloured and sulphurous, as though we were traversing some
part of the nether world. It was a most striking contrast to the lovely
scenery we had already passed, and also to that we were approaching--Aci
Reale and Catania, in particular, comparing even with Monte Carlo and
Monaco; groves of orange and olive trees and picturesque vineya