e promenade--City of precipices
--Climate of Genoa 72

CHAPTER VIII.

Pisa--Hotel Victoria--Pisan weather--The poet Shelley--Historic
Pisa--Lung 'Arno--San Stefano di Canalia--Cathedral--Baptistery
--Leaning Tower--Campo Santo--The divine angels--The great chain
of Pisa--Leghorn--Smollett's grave--Poste-restante--A sweet thing
in Beggars--Ugolino's Tower--Departure for Rome 83

CHAPTER IX.

Arrival in Rome--Hotel de la Ville--The Corso--The Strangers'
Quarter--Roman Guides--View from the Capitol--"How are the mighty
fallen!"--The sculpture-gallery of the Capitol--The Dying Gladiator
--The Venus--Hawthorne's Marble Faun--Bambino Santissimo--The
Mamertine Prison--The Forum--Palaces--The Coliseum--Longfellow's
"Michael Angelo" 92

CHAPTER X.

Trajan's Gate--The Appian Way--The English Cemetery--Catacombs
of St. Calixtus--Reflections on the Italian seat of government
--Churches--S. Paolo Fuori le Mura--Santa Maria Maggiore--S.
Pietro in Vincoli--"Was St. Peter ever in Rome?"--Fountains of
Rome--Dell' Aqua Felice--Paulina--Trevi--Rome's famous Aqueducts
--Beggars--Priests 106

CHAPTER XI.

Papal Rome--Narrow streets--St. Angelo--Benvenuto Cellini--St.
Peter's--Pieta Chapel--The Dead Christ--Tomb of the Stuarts--
Anniversary of St. Peter's--Grand ceremonial--Cardinal Howard
--The Vatican--Pictures--Pauline and Sistine Chapels--"The Last
Judgment"--Pinacoteca--Raphael's "Transfiguration"--"The
Madonna"--Christian Martyrs--Sculptures--Tapestries--Leo
XIII.--Italian Priesthood--St. John Lateran--Marvellous legends
and relics--Native irreverence to sacred edifices 119

CHAPTER XII.

Excursion to Tivoli--Sulphur baths--Memories--Temple of the Sybil
--River Anio--Lovely scenery--Back to Rome--Post-office--Careless
officials--The everlasting "Weed"--Climate of Rome--Discomforts and
disappointments--Young Italy--Leo XIII.--Italian Politics--Cessation
of Brigandage--The new City--American church--_Italian Times_--
Departure for Naples--Regrets--The Three Taverns--A picturesque
route--Naples by night 137