iastical center. There is little except the cathedral, which, in
addition to being one of the most imposing, occupies perhaps the finest
site of any of the great English churches. Together with Durham Castle,
it monopolizes the summit of a hill which at its base is three-quarters
surrounded by the river. The greater part of the cathedral dates back
seven or eight hundred years, but additions have been made from time to
time so that nearly all styles of architecture are represented.
Tradition has it that it was founded by St. Cuthbert, whose chief
characteristic is declared to have been his antipathy toward women of
all degrees. A curious relic of this peculiarity of the saint remains in
a granite cross set in the center of the floor of the nave, beyond
which, in the earlier days, no woman was ever allowed to pass. The
interior of the church is mainly in the massive and imposing Norman
style. The carved stone screen is one of the most elaborate and perfect
in Britain, and dates back from the Thirteenth Century. The verger told
us of the extreme care which must be taken to preserve this relic. He
said that the stone of the screen is rather soft and brittle, and that
in cleaning it was never touched, the dust being blown away with
bellows. Durham, in common with most of the cathedrals, suffered
severely at the hands of the Parliamentarians under Cromwell. It was
used as a prison for a part of the Scotch army captured at the battle of
Dunbar, and as these Presbyterians had almost as much contempt for
images as the Cromwellians themselves, many of the beautiful monuments
in the cathedral were broken up. Durham, like Canterbury, is a town that
is much favored by the artists, and deservedly so. The old buildings
lining the winding river and canal form in many places delightful vistas
in soft colors almost as picturesque as bits of Venice itself. The
hotels, however, are far from first-class, and one would probably be
more comfortable at Newcastle. Speaking of hotels, we did not at any
time engage accommodations in advance, and Durham was the only town
where we found the principal hotel with all rooms taken. With the rapid
increase of motoring, however, it will probably become necessary to
telegraph for accommodations at the best hotels. And telegraphing is an
exceedingly easy thing in England. A message can be sent from any
postoffice at a cost of sixpence for the first ten words.

XII

IN OLD YORKSHIRE

York is by