oes not
prevail to any such extent in England as in the United States and there
is considerable bitterness between the various sects.
Speaking of new cathedrals, while several are being built by the Roman
Catholics, only one is under construction by the Church of England--the
first since the days of the Stuarts. This is at Liverpool and the
foundations have barely been begun. The design for the cathedral was a
competitive one selected from many submitted by the greatest architects
in the world. The award was made to Gilbert Scott, a young man of only
twenty-one and a grandson of the famous architect of the same name who
had so much to do with the restoration of several of the cathedrals. The
Liverpool church is to be the greatest in the Kingdom, even exceeding
York Minster and St. Paul's in size. No attempt is made to fix the time
when the building will be completed, but the work will undoubtedly
occupy several generations.
In Norwich we stopped at the Maid's Head Hotel, one of the noted
old-time English hostelries. It has been in business as a hotel nearly
five hundred years and Queen Elizabeth was its guest while on one of her
visits to the city of Norwich. Despite its antiquity, it is thoroughly
up-to-date and was one of the most comfortable inns that we found
anywhere. No doubt this is considerably due to a large modern addition,
which has been built along the same lines as the older portion. Near the
cathedral are other ancient structures among which are the two gateways,
whose ruins still faintly indicate their pristine splendor of carving
and intricate design. The castle, at one time a formidable fortress, has
almost disappeared. "Tombland" and "Strangers' Hall" are the
appellations of two of the finest half-timbered buildings that we saw.
The newer portions of Norwich indicate a prosperous business town and it
is supplied with an unusually good street-car system. Most of the larger
English cities are badly off in this particular. York, for instance, a
place of seventy-five thousand, has but one street-car line, three or
four miles in length, on which antiquated horse-cars are run at
irregular intervals.
XIV
PETERBOROUGH, FOTHERINGHAY, ETC
The hundred miles of road that we followed from Norwich to Peterborough
has hardly the suggestion of a hill, though some of it is not up to the
usual English standard. We paused midway at Dereham, whose remarkable
old church is the only one we saw in England
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