out ten miles
to the south. In location and style of construction it is one of the
most remarkable of the Scotch ruins. It stands in an almost level
country near the coast and must have depended for defense on its
enormously thick walls and the great double moat which surrounded it,
rather than the strength of its position. The castle is built of
dark-brown stone, and the walls, rising directly from the waters of the
moat and covered with masses of ivy, are picturesque, though in a sad
state of disrepair. Bits of artistic carving and beautiful windows
showed that it was a palace as well as a fortress, though it seems
strange that the builder should select such a site. In common with most
British castles, it was finally destroyed by Cromwell, and the custodian
showed us a pile of cannon balls which he had gathered in the vicinity.
On one of the stones of the inner wall were the initials, "R.B.," and
the date, "1776," which our guide assured us were cut by Robert Burns;
and there are certain peculiarities about the monogram which leave
little doubt that it was the work of the poet. From the battlements of
the castle the old man pointed to a distant hill, where, he told us, the
home of the Carlyles had been for many years and where Thomas Carlyle,
who was born at Ecclefechan, lies buried. Within a few miles of Dumfries
is Ellisland Farm, where Robert Burns was a tenant for several years,
and many of his most famous poems were written during that period. And
besides, there were old abbeys and castles galore within easy reach; and
glad indeed we should have been had we been able to make the Station
Hotel our headquarters for a week and devote our time to exploring. But
we were already behind schedule and the afternoon found us on the road
to Ayr.

A little more than half the distance from Dumfries to Ayr the road runs
through the Nith Valley, with river and forest scenery so charming as to
remind us of the Wye. The highway is a splendid one, with fine surface
and easy grades. It passes through an historic country, and the journey
would consume a long time if one should pause at every point that might
well repay a visit. A mile on the way is Lincluden Abbey, in whose
seclusion Burns wrote many of his poems, the most famous of which, "The
Vision of Liberty," begins with a reference to the ruin:

"As I stood by yon roofless tower
Where wall flowers scent the dewy air,
Where the owlet lone in her ivy bower,