being only 11,500, but there are
no mendicants. The public roads, in the Canton of Berne, are kept in
excellent order, and every thing indicates the activity of the
administration. The government is an aristocracy, and I was informed
the chief power of of the state is vested in about twentyfour of the
principal families. There are, doubtless, in general, many strong
objections against this form of government, but the comfort, opulence,
and appearance of content, which is remarked in the Bernese is such,
that it is impossible to suppose they are not well governed; the least
observant traveller may soon perceive, by the appearance of a people,
whether they are subject to a free or to a despotic government. I
cannot, however, subscribe to Pope's opinion,

"That which is best administered is best."

The _form_ is still in my judgment the first requisite; nor can I agree
that the goodness consists in the mere administration. I visited the
agricultural establishment of M. de Fellenberg, at Hofwyl, two leagues
from Berne, where may be learnt the principles of rural economy, and
where annual fetes are given for the encouragement of farming; and I
also made an excursion to Hindelbanck, three leagues distant, where is
a much admired monument, erected from a design of M. Nahl; it represents
his wife, who died in child-bed, breaking; from her tomb with her child
in her arms. The Canton of Berne, before the separation from it of the
Cantons of Vaud and Argovia, formed about a third of Switzerland; its
population is now about 300,000. The country is fruitful, but like the
rest of Switzerland does not afford a sufficient supply of corn for its
inhabitants. Its fruit and vegetables are excellent. Its mountains feed
vast herds of cattle, and there is abundance of game. Its exports are
principally horses, cottons, watches, and kirschwasser, (or spirit
extracted from the cherry) there are manufactories of silks, and woollen
stuffs, and its gunpowder is in much estimation throughout Europe. The
salt comes mostly from France, but does not cost above five sols the
pound. Groceries are still dear, but are much reduced since the downfall
of the continental system. This Canton first entered into the Swiss
Confederation, in 1353. I made some enquiries respecting clergy, from a
most respectable minister of my acquaintance, who informed me, that the
senate appoint to all ecclesiastical benefices--that the clergy are
divided into _synods_ whic