r up.

Before Bonn we saw the remains of two merchant vessels which had been
wrecked there a few days before. Those who embark on the Rhine for
pleasure, should here leave their boats, and pursue the rest of their
journey by land, as the country ceases to be interesting, and the
navigation is often difficult.

We set out with a favourable wind; but about a league from _Cologne_ our
boat was driven on the right bank of the Rhine by a violent gale; and as
there appeared no immediate prospect of proceeding by water, most of the
party determined on walking to the city. We found the flying bridge had
been damaged by the late storm, and were therefore obliged, to wait a
long time for a boat of sufficient size to pass the river, which was
greatly agitated, and which is here of great depth, although much
narrower than at _Mayence_. Few cities present a more imposing
appearance than Cologne; a vast extent of buildings, a profusion of
steeples, and a forest of masts, raise the expectations of the
traveller. The deception cannot be more justly or more emphatically
described than in the words of Dr._Johnson:_ "Remotely we see nothing
but spires of temples, and turrets of palaces, and imagine it the
residence of splendour, grandeur, and magnificence; but when we have
passed the gates, we find it perplexed with narrow passages, disgraced
with despicable cottages, embarrassed with obstructions, and clouded
with smoke."

Cologne is one of the largest and most ancient cities in Germany; it was
founded by _Agrippa_, and is above three miles in length; but the
population is only between 40 and 50,000, which is very inconsiderable
for its great extent. From the number of its churches, which at one time
amounted to 300, it has been called the Rome of Germany. One of them
(the Dome), although still unfinished, is one of the grandest efforts
of architecture, and excites the admiration of all judges of that art.
The port owes its improvement to Buonaparte, and the quay is lined with
ships of considerable size.

The city was anciently imperial, and the Elector of Cologne could not
reside more than three days together in it without permission of the
magistrates; but those who have ever seen this gloomy city, will not, I
think, consider this restriction as a grievance.

I here left the Rhine; it is difficult sufficiently to praise the
beauties of its banks, which afford also ample scope for the researches
of the naturalist. They are not, ho