r, nor
out of the cave, and our guides had never entered it before. We advised
them for the future to omit this and some other particulars in their
stories about the well; but probably, except from the padrecito, and
others to whom we communicated what we saw, the next travellers will
hear the same accounts that we did.

As we advanced, we remained a little while in the cooler atmosphere
before exposing ourselves to the rush of cold air toward the mouth, and
in an hour and a half from the time of entering, we emerged into the
outer air.

As a mere cave, this was extraordinary; but as a well or watering-place
for an ancient city, it was past belief, except for the proofs under
our own eyes. Around it were the ruins of a city without any other
visible means of supply, and, what rarely happened, with the Indians it
was matter of traditionary knowledge. They say that it was not
discovered by them; it was used by their fathers; they did not know
when it began to be used. They ascribe it to that remote people whom
they refer to as the antiguos.

And a strong circumstance to induce the belief that it was once used by
the inhabitants of a populous city, is the deep track worn in the rock.
For ages the region around has been desolate, or occupied only by a few
Indians during the time of working in the milpas. Their straggling
footsteps would never have made that deep track. It could only have
been made by the constant and long-continued tread of thousands. It
must have been made by the population of a city.

In the grove surrounding the entrance we found some water collected in
the hollow of a stone, with which we slaked our thirst and made a
partial ablution; and it was somewhat extraordinary that, though we
were barely recovered from illness, had exerted ourselves greatly, and
been exposed to rapid alternations of heat and cold, we never
experienced any bad effects from it.

On our return to the village we found that an unfortunate accident had
occurred during our absence; a child had been run away with by a horse,
thrown off, and killed. In the evening, in company with the alcalde,
the brother of the padrecito, we went to the velorio, or watching. It
was an extremely dark night, and we stumbled along a stony and broken
street till we reached the house of mourning. Before the door were a
crowd of people, and a large card-table, at which all who could find a
place were seated playing cards. At the moment of our arrival, t