, which passed through the folds of
the cloak, and was hidden from sight by this outer disc. It retained
that form for ages, and is rarely seen upon antique monuments in any
other shape. It is very clearly represented upon the statue of Paris, as
shown in Fig. 201. It will be seen that the cloak covered the left arm,
the opening being upon the right one, where the brooch reposed on the
shoulder, leaving the right arm free. There is a very beautiful and
well-known antique statue of Diana, representing the goddess fastening
her mantel in the same manner.

The character of this outer garment varied with the seasons, but whether
heavy and warm, or light and cool, it was usually plain in its
character, or simply decorated with a border, and corner ornament.
Sometimes, when worn by great personages, it appears to have been
decorated with needlework, and shot with threads of gold. Such a one is
described in the Odyssey (book xix.) as worn by Ulysses:--

"In ample mode
A robe of military purple flow'd
O'er all his frame: illustrious on his breast
The double-clasping gold the king confest.
In the rich woof a hound, mosaic drawn,
Bore on full stretch, and seized a dappled fawn:
Deep in the neck his fangs indent their hold;
They pant and struggle in the moving gold."

When the brooch secured the short military cloak of the Romans, it was
usually worn in the centre of the breast. As the desire for personal
display increased, a brooch was worn on each shoulder; the ladies often
wearing a row of them to close the sleeve left open down the arm.
Occasionally, they were also used to fasten the tunic above the knee, in
the way that Diana,

"Queen and huntress, chaste and fair,"

appears to have secured hers before she indulged in the chase.

As luxury increased in the Roman Empire, these articles of utility
became also ornaments of much cost and splendour. The art of the
goldsmith was devoted to enrichments for them; that of the enameller to
brilliant colouring. They increased in size greatly, and became
distinctive of rank and wealth. The influence of Eastern taste, when
the seat of royalty was transferred from Rome to Constantinople, was
visible in the jewellery afterwards usually worn; nor was the taste by
any means confined to the fair sex, the men in the East being still as
fond of jewellery as the ladies of the harem. The poorest persons
eagerly wear what their limited