on is
Maros Vasarhely, which is nearly ninety miles away. The drive between
the two places is very fine--that is, the scenery is fine, but the road
itself is execrable. A telegraph wire connects Borsek with the outside
world, but the post only comes twice a-week.

[Footnote 21: The waters of Borsek are much taken as an "after-cure."]

CHAPTER XXVI.

Moldavian frontier--Toelgyes--Excitement about robbers--Attempt at
extortion--A ride over the mountains--Return to St Miklos.

Instead of going back to St Miklos by the same route, I resolved to
diverge a little if the weather permitted. I wanted to visit Toelgyes, a
village on the frontier of Moldavia, which is said to be very pretty.
The weather decidedly improved, so I rode off in that direction. The
road, owing to the late rains, was in a dreadful state. All the mountain
summits were covered with fresh snow; it was a lovely sight. The
dazzling whiteness of these peaks rising above the zone of dark
fir-trees was singularly striking and beautiful. The effect of sunshine
was exhilarating in the highest degree, and the contrast with my recent
experience gave it a keener relish.

At Toelgyes there is a considerable trade with Moldavia in wood. Quite a
fresh human interest was imparted to the scene by this industry. By the
side of the stream small rafts were in course of construction, and the
trunks of the trees were being placed in position to make the descent of
the stream. The woodman's axe was heard in the forest, and many a
picturesque hut or group of huts were to be seen by the roadside, where
the woodmen and their families live, to be near their work. The labour
of getting the timber along these tortuous mountain streams is very
great. A ready market is found at Galatz, where a great deal of this
wood is sent.

I remained the night at Toelgyes. The whole place was in a state of
excitement about brigands; every one had some fresh rumour to help swell
the general panic. A company of soldiers were kept constantly patrolling
the roads in the neighbourhood. I should say they were pretty safe not
to encounter the robbers, who are always well informed under those
circumstances.

In studying my pocket-map, I found that there was clearly a short cut
over the mountains to St Miklos. On inquiry I extracted the confirmation
of the fact with difficulty, and I had still more difficulty in inducing
anybody to go with me as a guide. At length I secured the ser