e of the ruler of Kelat and his court. It
was at Quetta, on the occasion of the presentation of Mir Khudadad
to the Viceroy of India. Previous to a grand _dejeuner_ given in his
honour, the Khan and his suite were shown into a dressing-room for the
purpose of washing their hands. On entering to announce that luncheon
was ready, the aide-de-camp found that the distinguished guests had
already commenced operations, and were greedily devouring the cakes
of Pears' soap that had been placed there for a somewhat different
purpose. That none of the party felt any after ill effects speaks well
for the purity of the wares of the mammoth advertiser--or the Baluch
digestion!

The Khan shook my hand cordially at parting, and again begged me not
to forget his warnings anent the Ameer of Afghanistan, with whom he is
apparently not on the best of terms. I found, with some relief, that
my Beila men had made friends with the Afghans, and, surrounded by an
admiring crowd, were hobnobbing over a hissing samovar. One of the
Afghans handed me a glass of tea, which, not to offend him, I drank
and found delicious. It had come from China _via_ Siberia, Samarcand,
and Cabul. "Russki!" said the man with a grin, as I handed back the
cup.

The Khan of Kelat very rarely leaves his palace, and is seldom seen
abroad in the streets of Kelat except on Fridays, when he goes to the
mosque on foot, attended by an escort armed to the teeth. He is said
to live in constant dread of assassination, for his cruel, rapacious
character has made him universally detested in and around the capital.
His one thought in life is money and the increase of his income,
which, with the yearly sum allowed him by the British Government, may
be put down at considerably over L30,000 per annum. A thorough miser,
the Khan does not, like most Eastern potentates, pass the hours of
night surrounded by the beauties of the harem, but securely locked in
with his money-bags in a small, comfortless room on the roof of his
palace.

[Illustration: THE KHAN OF KELAT]

There is not the smallest doubt in my mind that Russian influence
is, indirectly, being brought to bear on the Court of Kelat. But Mir
Khudadad may be said to have no policy. As the French say, "Il change
sa nationalite comme je change de chemise," and is to be bought by the
highest bidder.

Although the Khan's subjects are heavily taxed, there is no protection
whatsoever of life or property in or around Kelat. Theft is