ecd. Feb. 15, 1836)
Badajoz, _Janry._ 8, 1836.

JOURNEY TO EVORA
An Extract from My Journal

On the afternoon of the sixth of December I set out for this place,
accompanied by my servant Anthonio. I had been informed that the tide
would serve for the _felouks_, or passage-boats, employed in crossing the
Tagus, at about four o'clock, but on reaching the river's side opposite
Aldea Gallega, between which place and Lisbon they ply, I found that the
tide would not permit them to start before eight o'clock. Had I waited
for them I should probably have landed at Aldea Gallega at midnight, and
I felt little inclination to make my _entree_ in the Alemtejo at that
hour; therefore as I saw small boats which can push off at any time lying
near in abundance, I determined upon hiring one of them for the passage,
though the expense would be thus considerably increased. I soon agreed
with a wild-looking lad to take us over, who told me that he was in part
owner of one of the boats. I was not aware of the danger in crossing the
Tagus at any time in these small boats at its broadest part, which is
between Lisbon and Aldea Gallega, but especially at close of day in the
winter season, or I should certainly not have ventured. The lad and his
comrade, a miserable object, whose only clothing, notwithstanding the
severity of the weather, was a battered jerkin and trousers, rowed until
we had advanced about half a mile from the land; they then hoisted a
large sail, and the lad, who seemed to be the principal and to direct
everything, took the helm and steered. The evening was now setting in;
the sun was not far from its bourne in the horizon, the air was very
cold, the wind was rising, and the waves of the noble Tagus began to be
crested with foam. I told the boy that it was scarcely possible for the
boat to carry so much sail without upsetting; upon which he laughed, and
began to gabble in a most incoherent manner. He had the most harsh and
rapid articulation that has ever come under my observation; it was the
scream of the hyena blended with the bark of the terrier; but it was by
no means an index of his disposition, which I soon found to be light,
merry, and anything but malevolent; for when I, in order to show him that
I cared little about him, began to hum: '_Eu que sou contrabandista_'
('I, who am a smuggler'), he laughed heartily, and clapping me on the
shoulder said that he