ortugal was hailed with
surprise and delight; for nothing is more gratifying to a well-educated
Portuguese than to observe a foreigner taking an interest in the
literature of his nation, of which he is so justly proud.

About two o'clock we were once more in the saddle, and pursued our way
through a country exactly resembling that which we had previously been
traversing, rugged and broken, with here and there a clump of pines. The
afternoon was exceedingly fine, and the bright rays of the sun relieved
the desolation of the scene. Having advanced about two leagues, I caught
sight of a large edifice in the distance, which I learnt was a royal
palace, standing at the farther extremity of Vendas Novas, the village
where we were to halt. It was considerably more than a league from us,
yet, seen through the clear transparent atmosphere of Portugal, it
appeared much nearer. Before reaching it, we passed by a stone cross, on
the pedestal of which was an inscription commemorating a horrible murder
of a native of Lisbon, which had been perpetrated on that spot. It
looked ancient, and was covered with moss, and the greatest part of the
inscription was illegible, at least it was to me, who could not bestow
much time on the deciphering of it.

Having arrived at Vendas Novas and bespoke supper, my new friends and
myself strolled forth to view the palace. It was built by the late King
of Portugal, and presents little that is remarkable in its exterior. It
is a long edifice with wings, and is only two stories high, though it can
be seen afar, owing to its being situated on elevated ground. It has
fifteen windows in the upper and twelve in the lower story, with a
paltry-looking door something like that of a barn, the ascent to which is
by a single step. The interior corresponds with the exterior, offering
nothing which can gratify curiosity, if we except the kitchens, which are
indeed magnificent, and so large that food enough might be prepared in
them to serve as a repast to all the inhabitants of the Alemtejo. I
passed the night with great comfort in a clean bed, remote from all those
noises in general so rife in a Portuguese inn, and the next morning at
six we again set out on our journey, which we hoped to terminate before
sunset, as Evora is but ten leagues from Vendas Novas. The preceding
morning had been cold, but the present one was far more, so much so that
just before sunrise I could no longer support it whilst ridi