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umerically much richer in bacteria than milk, yet the changes due to bacterial action are slower; hence milk sours more rapidly than cream. For this same reason, cream will sour sooner when it remains on the milk than it will if it is separated as soon as possible. This fact indicates the necessity of early creaming, so as to increase the keeping quality of the product, and is another argument in favor of the separator process. ~Ripening of cream.~ If cream is allowed to remain at ordinary temperatures, it undergoes a series of fermentation changes that are exceedingly complex in character, the result of which is to produce in butter made from the same the characteristic flavor and aroma that are so well known in this article. We are so accustomed to the development of these flavors in butter that they are not generally recognized as being intimately associated with bacterial activity unless compared with butter made from perfectly fresh cream. Sweet-cream butter lacks the aromatic principle that is prominent in the ripened product, and while the flavor is delicate, it is relatively unpronounced. In the primitive method of butter-making, where the butter was made on the farm, the ripening of cream became a necessity in order that sufficient material might be accumulated to make a churning. The ripening change occurred spontaneously without the exercise of any especial control. With the development of the creamery system came the necessity of exercising a control of this process, and therefore the modern butter-maker must understand the principles which are involved in this series of complex changes that largely give to his product its commercial value. In these ripening changes three different factors are to be taken into consideration: the development of acid, flavor and aroma. Much confusion in the past has arisen from a failure to discriminate between these qualities. While all three are produced simultaneously in ordinary ripening, it does not necessarily follow that they are produced by the same cause. If the ripening changes are allowed to go too far, undesirable rather than beneficial decomposition products are produced. These greatly impair the value of butter, so that it becomes necessary to know just to what extent this process should be carried. In cream ripening there is a very marked bacterial growth, the extent of which is determined mainly by the temperature of the cream. Conn and Esten[153] find
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