URCHES AND
CIVIL INSTITUTIONS.

On approaching the Isle of Cuba, the sight of this queen of the Antilles
seemed like the realization of some beautiful Eastern dream. As our
vessel neared the verdant, palm-clad hills, our party were caressed by
warm, odorous breezes. The softest of blue skies looked down upon us,
and we gazed on the smoothest and clearest of seas. No wonder that the
brave and holy Columbus, with his crew, should feel transported with joy
at the sight of the tropical isles on which they first set foot. The
poetic effect of the scenes then viewed must have been greatly increased
by the appearance of the native Indians, whose costumes and wild graces
were so strange to European eyes.

Richly painted boats filled with gay, chattering Cubans moved briskly
over the waters as we neared the entrance to the harbor. A beautiful
picture now appeared before us. It seemed as if enchanted palaces,
gardens, castles and towers had suddenly issued from the depths of the
green, transparent waves. Nearly every building had a peculiarly
exquisite tint, and all were flooded and enriched with the mellow,
tropical sunlight. Fort Morro, to the left, beetled over the waves like
some sombre and impregnable defence of the Middle Ages. Its golden-brown
and colossal walls sprung like a master-piece of feudal art from the
dark, wave-washed, slippery rocks below. The tall, slender light-house
connected with it greatly added to its attractions. Soldiers in bright
uniforms paced to and fro on the ramparts, while the flag of old Spain,
with its mingled hues of blood and gold, floated proudly above the
battlements. The harbor was narrow at the entrance and widened further
on, appearing in shape like the palm of one's hand. I felt so dazzled
with the splendors around me, that I could not grasp at once the
beauties of individual objects.

Opposite Fort Morro stood El Castillo de La Punta, an older, but
smaller defence erected by Philip II., in 1589. Immediately behind the
Morro, Fort La Cahanas spread away for nearly half a mile on the top of
a picturesque range of hills. This is one of the largest forts in the
world, and cost (as I was informed) thirty million dollars. When the
King of Spain heard of its vast price, he took his telescope at once,
and told his courtiers that so expensive a building ought to be plainly
seen from the top of his Madrid palace. White-stoned cottages lined the
waters to the left, and decorated the slopes of