sed rather than handed to us by white-clad characters who
thronged the decks. Among the smaller brown-faced, curly-headed boatmen
were some lithe and powerful Cubans dressed in simple white shirt and
pants, blue neck-ties and Panama hats. Having agreed with one of these
to go from the vessel to the city at the rate of fifty cents apiece in
gold, our party passed down the companion-ladder and entered a
well-built bumboat, painted in green, blue and yellow, adorned with
carpets, cushions, one sail and a gorgeous awning. The soft, tropical
sun shone down on this poetical scene, and as the powerful arms of the
oarsmen propelled the boat, the breezes played over us and the green
waters.

On embarking at the custom-house, an unpretending wooden structure, our
luggage was carefully overhauled by a courteous officer, attired in
spotless, light-blue linen. Passing through the building I emerged on
the street where crowds of negroes, Cuban and foreigners were engaged in
smoking, chatting, and watching the newly-arrived travellers. Numerous
coaches were drawn up in this neighborhood, and a person could visit any
part of the city in one of them for a trifling sum. The Hotel de Europa,
where I intended to stay, was only a few minutes' walk from the
custom-house, and was delightfully situated on the Plaza de St.
Francisco, facing the bay.

The first sight of Havana reveals to the United States visitor, who
never saw a Spanish city, a style of architecture, habits and scenes
entirely characteristic of Spain. The streets through which I passed
were but wide enough for one vehicle; the sidewalks could only
accommodate one foot passenger, and the houses, usually of one story,
were built of stone as thick, solid and gloomy looking as fortresses. On
my way I noticed that the windows had no glass, but were as large as
doors, fortified within by iron bars like those of a prison, and
additionally defended by heavy, wooden shutters generally painted green.
The shops were on a level with the pavement, and their rich and rare
collection of goods were all exposed to the view of the public. Awnings
now and then extended overhead across the street. Now some darkies and
Chinamen moved along bearing big burthens on their heads, and announcing
their wares in loud tones in the Spanish language. These were followed
by what appeared to me to be mysterious moving stalks of corn. As the
latter came nearer, the heads and legs of donkeys were seen amidst th