other by sleeping
apartments. Two great jars, of Pompeian style, stood on a side-board
outside the door, and were full of cold water. These were for the use of
the guests on the corridor. When I entered my room I found it had a
floor of red and yellow tiles, immense, thick rough rafters overhead,
painted blue and white, an iron bedstead, a great chest of drawers, no
carpet, and shutters as heavy and ponderous as those of some old
European prison. Yet everything was pleasant and cool. The view from the
window of the bay, forts, shipping and houses was very beautiful, and,
surely, I had keener apprehension of it than the lazy mulateers, whom I
saw sleeping in their ox-carts below on the square, their red-blue caps
and white jackets flooded in sunshine. The visitors to Cuba need not
expect the luxury of a feather bed or a mattress. Neither was visible in
my room. The couch consisted of a piece of canvas tightly spread over
the iron frame, and strongly attached to it. A single sheet constituted
the only covering, and the stranger will find that the pillow, filled
with the moss of the island is not at all too soft. The nights are so
pleasant that Cuban hotel keepers think this amount of bed furniture
quite sufficient.
After a little rest, I decided that the famous Jesuit College, "De
Belen," would be the first institution worth seeing. I went alone, and
soon found it on the corner of Lutz and Compostilla Streets. A stranger
cannot miss it, as it is one of the most formidable buildings in Havana.
Though its style has something of the barbaric about it, yet it is
chiefly so on account of its ruggedness, vastness and stern grandeur. It
is built of stone, cemented and brown in color. The main arched entrance
is very lofty, and on the steps as I passed by I noticed a gaunt,
diseased and ragged negro, with outstretched arms soliciting alms. I
rang the bell. A porter admitted me, and after asking for one of the
priests in fair Spanish, I was conducted to a grand saloon up stairs and
politely requested to await the arrival of Father Pinan who was
conversant with English. The saloon was a magnificent apartment, about
one hundred feet long by thirty wide. Its walls were adorned with
splendid paintings done by ancient masters, and all represented dear,
religious scenes. The lofty white pillars and the blue mouldings of the
saloon produced a charming effect. Several rows of rocking-chairs,
placed in pairs so that those occupying them w
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