having
weak eyes, and a alight hesitation in his speech; but civil and
good-natured, without any of the absurd suspicions of the Mutsellim of
Sokol. He at once granted me permission to see the castle, with the
remark, "Your seeing it can do us no good and no harm, Belgrade
castle is like a bazaar, any one can go out and in that likes." In the
course of conversation he told us that Ushitza is the principal
remaining settlement of the Moslems in Servia; their number here
amounting to three thousand five hundred, while there are only six
hundred Servians, making altogether a population of somewhat more than
four thousand souls. The Vayvode himself spoke Turkish on this
occasion; but the usual language at Sokol is Bosniac (the same as
Servian).

We now took our leave of the Vayvode, and continued ascending the same
street, composed of low one-storied houses, covered with irregular
tiles, and inclosed with high wooden palings to secure as much privacy
as possible for the harems. The palings and gardens ceased; and on a
terrace built on an open space stood a mosque, surrounded by a few
trees; not cypresses, for the climate scarce allows of them, but those
of the forests we had passed. The portico was shattered to fragments,
and remained as it was at the close of the revolution. Close by, is a
Turbieh or saint's tomb, but nobody could tell me to whom or at what
period it was erected.

Within a little inclosed garden I espied a strangely dressed figure, a
dark-coloured Dervish, with long glossy black hair. He proved to be a
Persian, who had travelled all over the East. Without the conical hat
of his order, the Dervish would have made a fine study for a
Neapolitan brigand; but his manners were easy, and his conversation
plausible, like those of his countrymen, which form as wide a contrast
to the silent hauteur of the Turk, and the rude fanaticism of the
Bosniac, as can well be imagined. His servant, a withered
baboon-looking little fellow, in the same dress, now made his
appearance and presented coffee.

_Author_. "Who would have expected to see a Persian on the borders of
Bosnia? You Dervishes are great travellers."

_Dervish_. "You Ingleez travel a great deal more; not content with
Frengistan, you go to Hind, and Sind, and Yemen.[9] The first
Englishman I ever saw, was at Meshed, (south-east of the Caspian,)
and now I meet you in Roumelly."

_Author_. "Do you intend to go back?"

_Dervish_. "I am in the hands of Alla