s look like a large body of Haiducks going on a
marauding expedition, now issued by a gate in the castle, opposite to
that by which I entered, and began to toil up the hill that overlooks
Ushitza, in order to have a bird's-eye view of the whole town and
valley. On our way up, the Natchalnik told me, that although long
resident here, he had never seen the interior of the castle, and that
I was the first Christian to whom its gates had been opened since the
revolution.

The old Vayvode, notwithstanding his cumbrous robes, climbed as
briskly as any of us to the detached fort on the peak of the hill,
whence we looked down on Ushitza and all its environs; but I was
disappointed in the prospect, the objects being too much below the
level of the eye. The landscape was spotty. Ushitza, instead of
appearing a town, looked like a straggling assemblage of cottages and
gardens. The best view is that below the bridge, looking to the
castle.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 9: This is a phrase, and had no relation to the occupation
of Sind or Aden.]

CHAPTER XVI.

Poshega.--The river Morava.--Arrival at Csatsak.--A Viennese
Doctor.--Project to ascend the Kopaunik.--Visit the Bishop.--Ancient
Cathedral Church.--Greek Mass.--Karanovatz.--Emigrant Priest.--Albania
Disorders.--Salt Mines.

On leaving Ushitza, the Natchalnik accompanied me with a cavalcade of
twenty or thirty Christians, a few miles out of the town. The
afternoon was beautiful; the road lay through hilly ground, and after
two hours' riding, we saw Poshega in the middle of a wide level plain;
after descending to which, we crossed the Scrapesh by an elegant
bridge of sixteen arches, and entering the village, put up at a
miserable khan, although Poshega is the embryo of a town symmetrically
and geometrically laid out. Twelve years ago a Turk wounded a Servian
in the streets of Ushitza, in a quarrel about some trifling matter.
The Servian pulled out a pistol, and shot the Turk dead on the spot.
Both nations seized their arms, and rushing out of the houses, a
bloody affray took place, several being left dead on the spot. The
Servians, feeling their numerical inferiority, now transplanted
themselves to the little hamlet of Poshega, which is in a finer plain
than that of Ushitza; but the colony does not appear to prosper, for
most of the Servians have since returned to Ushitza.

Poshega, from remnants of a nobler architecture, must have been a
Roman colony. At the new c