nd other heads. But I wish to speak of him here as a
companion. Highly gifted with thinking power, and possessing an
amount of knowledge which is extraordinary, so diversified are the
subjects, he literally bristled all over with information. The above,
joined to a modest demeanour and pleasant manner, made him one in
many. All on board liked him, and that alone speaks much in a man's
favour; for ten days on a vessel betrays more of character than
months elsewhere. If children like a man, I always think I shall do
the same. We had a large nursery on board; the little ones liked Mr
D'Almar, and so did I.

The _City of Rome_ is a luxurious boat, and, given calm water and a
set of passengers such as we had, what nicer than the Atlantic under
such conditions? I do not like the sea, and am often sea-sick. The
last thing I would do is to keep a yacht. So, enjoying the trip as I
did, speaks volumes for the comfort and pleasure which was
attainable. But then the _City of Rome_ is not an ordinary ship. The
sweep of deck for a walk, the superb saloon made gay with flowers,
the _cuisine_, which tempted you to eat more than is well on board,
the spacious smoking-room, the comfortable cabins, the absence of
vibration from the screw, all and everything about the ship was
simply perfect, and I felt almost sorry when we arrived, for though I
have travelled much I have never ploughed the deep in this wise.

New York--I am not going to add one more to the many descriptions
extant. As to the city, the many beautiful churches, the grand
museums, perfect picture-galleries, magnificent opera-house,
luxurious clubs, and numerous theatres, are they not all described,
and far better than I could do it, in Murray's hand-book and many
others. Still I will say a few words. First, as to climate. I was
there twice, once in the height of summer, once late in the autumn.
The temperature was as nice the last time as it was disagreeable the
first. I have spent years in the tropics, but I never suffered more
from heat than I did in New York last July. The nights were very
nearly as hot as they are in Calcutta the same month, and while in
the capital of Bengal to sleep except under a punkah is thought
impossible, in New York, punkahs or any cooling appliances being
unknown, you really suffer more. Still there is a difference. In
Calcutta, at that time of the year, you simply _cannot_ walk out in
the day time, the sun would knock you down. In New York yo