customs,--leaving the hair uncut for a year after a
relative's death, sitting on the floor, and not on a chair, for a week
after; twisting a pocket-handkerchief round the waist on the Sabbath in
order to save "the work" of carrying it; slitting the button-hole of the
waistcoat in time of distress instead of "rending the garment"; eating
_adafina_ on the Sabbath, an indigestible dish of hard-boiled eggs, meat,
and potatoes prepared overnight and left on the fire till next morning.

There is no end to ceremonials throughout a Jew's life: the first at his
circumcision, the next when his hair is cut for the first time, the next
when he goes to the synagogue for the first time, and so on.

When a Jew was buried in Tetuan, the uncoffined body, wrapped in sheets
on a wooden bier, might only be borne out of the city by the
_Bab-el-Je'f_, literally the Gate of the Unclean Dead--that is, the Jews'
Gate.

The mourners howled and the male relatives cried aloud; friends followed,
talking and smoking cigarettes. It happened sometimes that the grave was
not ready when the cortege reached the cemetery, and that the party would
sit down on the hillside while it was lengthened and deepened; from time
to time the body would be measured with a walking-stick, and the result
compared with the grave.

It is impossible to write about the Jews and omit one certain point.
Before the traveller has lived a week in Morocco he begins to hear of
_protection_, and he carries with him vague words--"protected Jews" and
"protected Moors"--which one sentence can explain. _Protection_ means
that a European living in Morocco, a Portuguese, a Frenchman, an
Englishman--it matters not--has it in his power to make the Jew or the
Moor desiring protection a nominal citizen of that country, Portugal or
France or what not, and can allow him the rights of a citizen and the
protection of the same; while it follows that the Sultan and the Moorish
Government have no more power to touch him than they have to touch a
French or an English subject, the protected Jew or Moor being outside
their jurisdiction, and only answerable to the consul of that country
which has given him protection, whether Germany, France, or any other.
The advantage of protection is to guarantee thereby the safety of
property. It was instituted a hundred years and more ago, to obviate the
difficulties and dangers incurred by Europeans in trading with Jews and
Moors in a country so badly governed