e much of: the baker is sent for and hanged.

[Illustration: A SAINT-HOUSE, TETUAN.

[_To face p. 148._]

The lucky colonel and his two hundred left Tetuan in bad weather: their
pay was such that many of them, before starting, sold the bullets
supplied them, in order to buy food with the money, preferring to fight
without ammunition rather than on empty stomachs; but only _one quarter_
of them got as far as El K`sar--the rest deserted on the road, to escape
hunger and exhaustion from rain and cold.

The Oolad Moosa tribe were eaten up not long ago; their land was harried,
their fruit-trees destroyed, and themselves killed, imprisoned, and
enslaved. I was told by a Spaniard that he had seen five camel-loads of
the heads of tribesmen brought into Larache while he was there. The
Sultan offered three shillings per head. His soldiers sent up not a few
heads which belonged to their own companions-in-arms. Consignments were
sent off to various cities throughout Morocco, where the Jews, as usual,
salted them, and they were set up over the gates and on the walls.

There is little or no artillery in his Shar[=i]fian Majesty's army,
though the few cannon he has, render him all-powerful against his
rebellious tribesmen, who are only armed with rifles (principally
French), which are smuggled into the country.

Soldiers are supplied with the same rifles and European swords: the
native curved dagger is also used.

Pitched battles are seldom heard of. The troops entrench themselves
strongly, gallop out in parties against the foe, fire a volley into his
line, and gallop back again to reload. Pillage is the great element in
this species of guerilla warfare.

In connection with the army are the _Makhaznia_ (mounted police): they
are practically cavalry. A few were quartered in Tetuan, and the basha
employed them to take men prisoners and preserve peace and take messages
and so on. The Makhaznia are paid for whatever they do by any one who
employs them, and they often act as soldier-escort to Europeans.

The Government of Morocco has but one hinge--a golden one. Thirty
thousand pounds was paid by the late governor of Morocco City for his
billet, and a capable man would still make his fortune before he retired,
by means of bribes and presents from every one in connection with him,
and a little undue pressure and taxation here and there. But no governor
is exempt from that war-cry in Morocco, "Pay! pay! pay!" And if he or a
basha w