leads thence underneath the Straits to the Rock of Gibraltar, and is used
by the monkeys as a means of transit from Africa to Europe.

Our miserable beasts were several hours toiling up to Tetuan: the rain
came on, and with the wind straight off the snows it was as cold a ride
as I remember.

The next morning we went to the French Steamship Company's office for the
purpose of recovering our passage money from the agent, who had insisted
upon our buying tickets beforehand. This fat, greasy Tangier Jew, of no
chin, and flabby, suet-pudding face, flatly refused in plausible French
to return us our cash, gesticulating, contradicting himself, pretending
to misunderstand us, all in the same breath, and needing nothing so much
as a good kicking. Since the money would only go into his own pocket, we
fought the point, and, after being most insolent, he was obliged to
promise that if the French Consular Agent in Tetuan judged it right, he
would hand over the money.

To the French Consular Agent we went: a Moor, whose office was in the
French Post Office--a solemn, dignified man in a flowing blue jellab,
over the same in white, both hoods drawn up over his head, showing a long
olive face of the true Arab type, black eyes, black beard and moustache.
He wore white socks and yellow slippers--a most courteous individual. On
hearing our case, he simply sent for the Steamships Company Agent, and
told him to hand over the money. We sat and waited with Mr. Bewicke, who
was interpreting for us. Presently a step, and, much out of breath, the
plausible Jew himself arrived, in a long great coat and billy-cock. He
took a seat, and stated his case in Arabic to the French Consular Agent.
There could have been no greater contrast than between the vulgar excited
Israelite and the stately Mohammedan. The Moor sat with folded arms:
occasionally he raised one hand to emphasize a quiet monosyllable. But
alas for the steadfastness of his race! Perhaps he disliked being mixed
up in the matter. At any rate, having said that the money was to be
refunded, he allowed the Jew to argue the point, and, we gathered, was
telling him finally that the whole question had better be referred to the
company itself--a dim and visionary Steamships Company on the other side
of the Mediterranean: it augured badly for us.

But at this point R. spoke in French, and reminded the Jew that he had
promised to refund the money if the French Consul so judged, that the
Consul