d golden-flowered
purslane; and the air, wonderfully pure and sweet in itself, was
flavored with delicate woodland odors. On the other side, under the
monastery, was an orchard of large apple-trees in full bloom, on a shelf
near the water; above them grew huge oaks and maples, heavy with their
wealth of foliage; and over the tops of these the level coping of the
precipice, with a balustrade, upon which hundreds of pilgrims, who had
arrived before us, were leaning and looking down.

Beyond this point, the inlet widened into a basin where the steamer had
room to turn around. Here we found some forty or fifty boats moored to
the bank, while the passengers they had brought (principally from the
eastern shore of the lake, and the district lying between it and Onega)
were scattered over the heights. The captain pointed out to us a
stately, two-story brick edifice, some three hundred feet long, flanking
the monastery, as the house for guests. Another of less dimensions, on
the hill in front of the landing-place, appeared to be appropriated
especially to the use of the peasants. A rich succession of musical
chimes pealed down to us from the belfry, as if in welcome, and our
deck-load of pilgrims crossed themselves in reverent congratulation as
they stepped upon the sacred soil.

We had determined to go on with our boat to Serdopol, at the head of the
lake, returning the next morning in season for the solemnities of the
anniversary. Postponing, therefore, a visit to the church and monastery,
we climbed to the summit of the bluff, and beheld the inlet in all its
length and depth, from the open, sunny expanse of the lake to the dark
strait below us, where the overhanging trees of the opposite cliffs
almost touched above the water. The honeyed bitter of lilac and apple
blossoms in the garden below steeped the air; and as I inhaled the
scent, and beheld the rich green crowns of the oaks which grew at the
base of the rocks, I appreciated the wisdom of Sergius and Herrmann that
led them to pick out this bit of privileged summer, which seems to have
wandered into the North from a region ten degrees nearer the sun. It is
not strange if the people attribute miraculous powers to them; naturally
mistaking the cause of their settlement on Valaam for its effect.

The deck was comparatively deserted, as we once more entered the lake.
There were two or three new passengers, however, one of whom inspired me
with a mild interest. He was a St.