voices of the monks, the bending heads of the beautiful-haired
crowd, and the dashes of white, pink, scarlet, blue, and gold in their
dresses, made a picture the solemnity of which was only heightened by
its pomp of color. I can do no more than give the features; the reader
must recombine them in his own mind.

The painter accompanied us to the place called Jelesniki, which, after a
walk of four miles through the forests, we found to be a deserted
village, with a chapel on a rocky headland. There was a fine bridge
across the dividing strait, and the place may have been as picturesque
as it was represented. On that side of the islands, however, there was a
dense fog, and we could get no view beyond a hundred yards. We had hoped
to see reindeer in the woods, and an eagle's nest, and various other
curiosities; but where there was no fog there were mosquitoes, and the
search became discouraging.

On returning to the monastery, a register was brought to us, in which,
on looking back for several years, we could find but one foreign
visitor,--a Frenchman. We judged, therefore, that the abbot would
possibly expect us to call upon him, and, indeed, the hospitality we had
received exacted it. We found him receiving visitors in a plain, but
comfortable room, in a distant part of the building. He was a man of
fifty-five, frank and self-possessed in his manners, and of an evident
force and individuality of character. His reception of the visitors,
among whom was a lady, was at once courteous and kindly. A younger monk
brought us glasses of tea. Incidentally learning that I had visited the
Holy Places in Syria, the abbot sent for some pictures of the monastery
and its chosen saints, which he asked me to keep as a souvenir of
Valaam. He also presented each of us with a cake of unleavened bread,
stamped with the cross, and with a triangular piece cut out of the top,
to indicate the Trinity. On parting, he gave his hand, which the
orthodox visitors devoutly kissed. Before the steamer sailed, we
received fresh evidence of his kindness, in the present of three large
loaves of consecrated bread, and a bunch of lilacs from the garden of
the monastery.

Through some misunderstanding, we failed to dine in the refectory, as
the monks desired, and their hospitable regret on this account was the
only shade on our enjoyment of the visit. Alexis remained, in order to
complete his devotions by partaking the Communion on the following
Sabbath; bu