erent spectator.

The structure of civilization that Europe has erected for itself is
imposing and beautiful. We in America are confronted with the facade
of this great building, and beheld from our side of the Atlantic it
looks magnificent and superb. Even when we enter it in Europe, and
behold its many ramifications, we still have cause to admire. But
there is a back side to this structure of civilization; there are
outbuildings, slums, and alleys not visible from the front. These back
on the Orient, and the rear view of the structure of European
civilization, seen from the Orient, is not imposing at all. The
sweepings and refuse of Western civilization and Western morality are
dumped out upon the Orient, where they do not show.

IV

RACE ANTAGONISMS

It is a crisp, cold morning, but nothing to what it will be, they tell
us, when the autumn is over, and the bitter winter settles down upon
North China. After all, come to think of it, we are abutting on two
extremely Northern provinces, Manchuria and Mongolia, and these adjoin
Siberia, which all the world knows is cold. So this sharp October day,
with its brilliant blue sky and hard, glittering sunshine, is only a
foretaste of the weather that will come later.

To-day we went into the Chinese City and visited a native department
store. At the best speed of our rickshaw-boys we passed out of the
Chi'en Men, the principal gate, and once beyond the towering, embattled
wall that separates the Chinese from the Tartar City, we lost ourselves
in the maze of narrow, winding streets that open on all sides from the
main road leading from the Chi'en Men, which, by the way, has been in
the possession of the American troops since the Boxer uprising. In the
narrow _hutungs_ our progress was slow; we literally shoved our way
through crowds of rickshaws and thousands of pedestrians, and as there
are no sidewalks, we were alternately scraping the walls and shop fronts
on one hand, or locking wheels with Peking carts on the other, and
feeling the warm breath of a camel or donkey down our necks whenever the
traffic brought us to a halt. Finally our boys stopped before a large
building about three stories high, emblazoned with gold dragons, and
with gorgeous red and yellow banners and flags all over the front of it.
It stood some distance back from the street, and the wide courtyard in
front was filled and crowded with the carts and carriages of the
high-class women who had g