, so we were finally
obliged to ride, becoming stiffer and sorer every minute. In single file
as we had come, we made our way back. Presently I heard a sort of
flumping sound behind me, and I turned, to see E---- and her donkey
lying side by side in the road, motionless. Dr. Reinsch jumped off his
animal, I rolled off mine, and we both ran back to the bundles of khaki
and fur lying together at full length.

"Are you hurt?" I asked anxiously.

"Mercy no!" replied E----, contentedly. "Leave me alone! Most
comfortable position I've been in all day!"

VIII

ADVISERS AND ADVICE

There is another quaint custom here, which, its far as I know, is unique
in the history of international relations. That is the custom of giving
advice to China. Any country can do it, apparently. Any country that
thinks China would be benefited by a little disinterested and helpful
counsel can see that she gets it--and that she pays for it, too. Any
person who wishes a lucrative position can get his government to appoint
him as an "adviser" to China, and his government will see to it that
China pays him a salary. As far as I know, China does not ask for this
advice; it is thrust upon her unsought. But she must pay for the
privilege, whether she likes it or not. So over they come, these various
"advisers" from various foreign nations, and settle down here in Peking
as the official adviser of this and that, and draw their salaries from
this bankrupt old government. The China Year Book for 1916 gives a list
of twenty-five such advisers, British, American, French, Russian, Dutch,
German, Italian, Japanese, Danish, Belgian, and Swedish. There is the
political adviser to the President; to the ministry of finance; in
connection with the five-power loan; to the ministry of war; on police
matters; to the ministry of communications; legal advice; advice on the
preparation of the constitution; advice to the bureau of forestry, and
to the mining department of the ministry of agriculture and commerce. In
addition to all this paid "advice," there is of course the unpaid,
voluntary "advice," equally disinterested and helpful, of the various
foreign legations in Peking. No wonder the poor old Chinese Government
is distraught and, as some one said last evening, in a state of anarchy.
Who wouldn't be in the circumstances? I wonder how long Washington would
tolerate such a string of "advisers," all appointed willy-nilly, and
paid for by the American Gove