was completed by the stuffing of each leaf and
flower and stem with flakes of cotton pushed through the homespun
lining. The weaving of the basket was a marvel of bands of buttonholed
material, which stood out in appropriate thickness. The centers of
the flowers had simulated stamens done in knotted work.

[Illustration: _Left_--SAMPLER in drawnwork, ecru linen thread, made by
Anne Gower, wife of Gov. John Endicott, before 1628.

_Center_--SAMPLER embroidered in dull colors on ecru canvas by Mary
Holingworth, wife of Philip English, Salem merchant, married July 1675,
accused of witchcraft in 1692, but escaped to New York. _From the Curwen
estate._

_Courtesy the Essex Institute, Salem, Mass._

_Right_--SAMPLER worked by Hattie Goodeshall, who was born February 19,
1780, in Bristol.

_Courtesy Metropolitan Museum of Art_]

I think this stuffed work was rather rare, for I have only seen two
specimens, and as it required unusual and exhaustive skill in
needlework, the production was naturally limited. The practice was one
of the exotic efforts of some one of large leisure and lively ambitions
who belonged to the class of prosperous citizens.

"Patchwork," as it was appropriately called, was more often a farmhouse
industry, which accounts for its narrow limits, since, with choice of
material, even a small familiarity with geometrical design might bring
good results. It might have easily become good domestic art. Geometrical
borders in two colors would have taken their place in decorative work,
and the applied work, so often ventured upon, was the beginning of one
very capable method. The skillful needlework, the elaborate quilting,
the stitchery and stuffing are worthy of respect, for the foundation of
it all was great dexterity in the use of the needle.

CHAPTER IV -- MORAVIAN WORK, PORTRAITURE, FRENCH EMBROIDERY, AND
LACEWORK

While the ladies and house mistresses of New England were busy with
their crewelwork, the children with their little samplers, and farm
housemothers sewed patchwork in the intervals of spinning and weaving,
an entirely different development of needlework art had taken place,
beginning in Pennsylvania. Embroidery in America did not grow
exclusively from seed brought over in the Mayflower. It sprang from many
sources, but its finest qualities came from the influence of what was
called "Bethlehem Embroidery."

The advent of this style of needlework was interesting. It originated in