n--were probably the result of the skillful and careful
needlework ornamentation of simple fabrics.

As an occupation, French embroidery practically displaced the making of
cabinet pictures of graceful ladies in scant satin gowns which had
occupied the embroidery frame, or decorated drawing-room walls. Flowers
ceased to blossom upon pincushions, and the engrossing and prevalent
occupation of needlework was entirely devoted to personal wear.

[Illustration: EMBROIDERY ON NET. Border for the front of a cap made
about 1820.

_Courtesy of Mrs. A. S. Hewitt_]

[Illustration: VEIL (unfinished) hand run on machine-made net. American
nineteenth century.

_Courtesy of Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York_]

At this period, however, ships were coming into Boston and other eastern
ports almost daily or weekly, instead of at intervals of weary months.
Ships were going to and returning from China and the Indies and the
islands of the sea, laden on their return voyages not only with spices
and liquors and sweets of the southern world, but with satins and
velvets and silks and prints, and delicately printed muslins and
cambrics; and the fair linen and cotton flosses disappeared from the
hands of needlewomen. Manufacturers had brought their looms to weave
designs into the fabrics they produced and to simulate the work of the
needle in a way which made one feel that the very spindles thought and
wrought with conscious love of beauty.

The larger demands of luxurious living increased also the necessary work
of the needle, and while the looms of France and Switzerland were busy
weaving broidered stuffs, the needles of sewing women were kept at work
fashioning the necessary garments of the millions of playing and working
human beings. It was the era which gave birth to the "Song of the
Shirt," a day of personal and exacting practice.

Lacework

The disappearance of the practice of French embroidery was as sudden as
the dropping of a theater curtain, but a coexistent art called Spanish
lacework lingered long after muslin embroidery had ceased to be. It was
chiefly used in the elaboration of shawls, and large lace veils, which
were a very graceful addition to Colonial and early American costume.
There is no difficulty in tracing this kind of decorative needlework. It
came from Mexico into New Orleans, and from there, by various secrets of
locomotion, spread along the southern states.

The veils were yard squares of delicate whi