ls laden with heavy burdens; a circumstance which
rather surprised me for I had always imagined that, owing to the peculiar
formation of its foot, the camel was only fitted for travelling over
sandy ground, whilst the way from Santa Cruz to Laguna is one continued
mass of sharp rocks, utterly unworthy of the name of a road; yet these
animals appeared to move over it without the least inconvenience.

After leaving Laguna the country for some miles bore a very uninteresting
appearance; for, although apparently fertile, it was quite parched up by
the extreme heat of the sun; our guides, who were on foot carrying our
carpet bags, kept up with us by running, and, occasionally when tired,
catching hold of the horses' tails to assist themselves along.

We halted for breakfast at Matanzas (or the place of slaughter) so called
from a dreadful slaughter of the Spaniards which was here made by the
Guanches, the aborigines of the island. I examined the spot where this
occurred; it is a narrow defile, formed by a precipice on one hand, and
perpendicular rocks on the other, and lies on the only route by which you
can pass across the island from east to west; it was therefore well
adapted for the purposes of savage warfare, and the Guanches here made
the Spaniards pay dearly for the cruelties practised on themselves.

All traces of this interesting people, who were eventually extirpated by
the Spaniards, have long since vanished, and, although I spared no pains,
I could glean but little information about them, but to this subject I
will advert again.

Before breakfast I made a set of magnetic observations, and then,
swallowing a hasty meal, prepared to start. A difficulty however arose
here, for neither Mr. Lushington nor myself spoke a word of Spanish,
although we understood tolerably well what others said to us; the paying
our bill became therefore rather a matter of embarrassment. One of the
guides saw our distress and made signs that he would arrange matters for
us; we accordingly gave him a dollar. With this he paid the bill and I
saw him receive some change, which he coolly pocketed; I afterwards asked
him for it, but he pretended with the utmost nonchalance not to
understand me; so we saw no more of it.

SCENERY NEAR ORATAVA.

In the ride from Matanzas to Oratava the road is wretched but the scenery
compensates for this. Upon arriving at the brow of the hill above
Oratava, a beautiful prospect bursts upon the sight; direct