nslated into most modern languages. These engravings were made
in Moscow several years ago, and illustrated the most prominent
incidents in the narrative.
There were many things to remind me I was no longer in Siberia, and
especially on the Baraba steppe. Snows were deeper, and the sky was
clearer. The level country was replaced by a broken one. Forests of
pine and fir displayed regular clearings, and evinced careful
attention. Villages were more numerous, larger and of greater
antiquity. Stations were better kept and had more the air of hotels.
Churches appeared more venerable and less venerated. Beggars increased
in number, and importunity. In Asia the yemshick was the only man at a
station who asked "navodku," but in Europe the _chelavek_ or _starost_
expected to be remembered. In Asia, the gratuity was called "Navodku"
or whisky money; in Europe, it was "_nachi_," tea money.
During the second night, we reached Perm and halted long enough to eat
a supper that made me dream of tigers and polar bears during my first
sleep. In entering, we drove along a lighted street with substantial
houses on either side, but without meeting man or beast. This street
and the station were all I saw of a city of 25,000 inhabitants. In
summer travelers for Siberia usually leave the steamboat at this
point, and begin their land journey, the Kama being navigable thus far
in ordinary water. Perm is an important mining center, and contains
several foundries and manufactories on an extensive scale. The doctor
assured me that after the places I had visited in Siberia, there was
nothing to be seen there--and I saw it.
A deep snow had been trodden into an uneven road in this part of the
journey. At times it seemed to me as if the sleigh and all it
contained would go to pieces in the terrific thumps we received. We
descended hills as if pursued by wolves or a guilty conscience, and it
was generally our fate to find a huge oukhaba just when the horses
were doing their best. I think the sleigh sometimes made a clear leap
of six or eight feet from the crest of a ridge to the bottom of a
hollow. The leaping was not very objectionable, but the impact made
everything rattle. I could say, like the Irishman who fell from a
house top, "'twas not the fall, darling, that hurt me, but stopping so
quick at the end."
When the roads are rough the continual jolting of the sleigh is very
fatiguing to a traveler, and frequently, during the first two or thr
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