do
his share and more; but neither he nor we were anxious to climb with
heavy packs on our backs, in the rarefied air of elevations several
thousand feet higher than Mont Blanc. The argument with the Indians
was long and verbose and the offerings of money and goods were made
more and more generous. All was in vain. We finally came to realize
that whatever supplies and provisions were carried up Coropuna would
have to be borne on our own shoulders. That evening the top of the
truncated dome, which was just visible from the valley near our camp,
was bathed in a roseate Alpine glow, unspeakably beautiful. The air,
however, was very bitter and the neighboring brook froze solid. During
the night the gendarme's mule became homesick and disappeared with
Coello's horse. Gamarra was sent to look for the strays, with orders
to follow us as soon as possible.

As no bearers or carriers were to be secured, it was essential to
persuade the Tejadas to take their pack mules up as far as the snow,
a feat they declined to do. The mules, Don Pablo said, had already gone
as far as and farther than mules had any business to go. Soon after
reaching camp Tucker had gone off on a reconnaissance. He reported that
there was a path leading out of the canyon up to the llama pastures on
the lower slopes of the mountains. The arrieros denied the accuracy
of his observations. However, after a long argument, they agreed
to go as far as there was a good path, and no farther. There was no
question of our riding. It was simply a case of getting the loads as
high up as possible before we had to begin to carry them ourselves. It
may be imagined that the arrieros packed very slowly and grudgingly,
although the loads were now considerably reduced. Finally, leaving
behind our saddles, ordinary supplies, and everything not considered
absolutely necessary for a two weeks' stay on the mountain, we set off.

We could easily walk faster than the loaded mules, and thought it
best to avoid trouble by keeping far enough ahead so as not to hear
the arrieros' constant complaints. After an hour of not very hard
climbing over a fairly good llama trail, the Tejadas stopped at the
edge of the pastures and shouted to us to come back. We replied
equally vociferously, calling them to come ahead, which they did
for half an hour more, slowly zigzagging up a slope of coarse,
black volcanic sand. Then they not only stopped but commenced to
unload the mules. It was necessary to