ent places of worship,
disturbing their superstitious prejudices, and possibly upsetting,
in their minds, the proper balance between wet weather and dry,
I might have brought upon myself uncivil looks and rough, churlish
treatment such as he experienced. In judging the attitude of mind
of the natives of Titicaca one should remember that they live under
most trying conditions of climate and environment. During several
months of the year everything is dried up and parched. The brilliant
sun of the tropics, burning mercilessly through the rarefied air,
causes the scant vegetation to wither. Then come torrential rains. I
shall never forget my first experience on Lake Titicaca, when the
steamer encountered a rain squall. The resulting deluge actually
came through the decks. Needless to say, such downpours tend to wash
away the soil which the farmers have painfully gathered for field or
garden. The sun in the daytime is extremely hot, yet the difference
in temperature between sun and shade is excessive. Furthermore, the
winds at night are very damp; the cold is intensely penetrating. Fuel
is exceedingly scarce, there is barely enough for cooking purposes,
and none for artificial heat.

Food is hard to get. Few crops can be grown at 12,500 feet. Some
barley is raised, but the soil is lacking in nitrogen. The principal
crop is the bitter white potato, which, after being frozen and dried,
becomes the insipid chuno, chief reliance of the poorer families. The
Inca system of bringing guano from the islands of the Pacific coast
has long since been abandoned. There is no money to pay for modern
fertilizers. Consequently, crops are poor. On Titicaca Island I
saw native women, who had just harvested their maize, engaged in
shucking and drying ears of corn which varied in length from one to
three inches. To be sure this miniature corn has the advantage of
maturing in sixty days, but good soil and fertilizers would double
its size and productiveness.

Naturally these Indians always feel themselves at the mercy of the
elements. Either a long rainy season or a drought may cause acute
hunger and extreme suffering. Consequently, one must not blame the
Bolivian or Peruvian Highlander if he frequently appears to be sullen
and morose. On the other hand, one ought not to praise Samoans for
being happy, hospitable, and light-hearted. Those fortunate Polynesians
are surrounded by warm waters in which they can always enjoy a swim,
trees from whi