have been more natural than for persons coming in
sight of his residence to perform an act of veneration. This in turn
might have led those leaving the city to fall into the same habit at
the same point in the road. I have watched hundreds of travelers pass
this point. None of those whose European costume proclaimed a white or
mixed ancestry stopped to pray or make obeisance. On the other hand,
all those, without exception, who were clothed in a native costume,
which betokened that they considered themselves to be Indians rather
than whites, paused for a moment, gazing at the ancient city, removed
their hats, and said a short prayer.

Leaving Ttica-Ttica, we went northward for several leagues, passed
the town of Chincheros, with its old Inca walls, and came at length
to the edge of the wonderful valley of Yucay. In its bottom are great
level terraces rescued from the Urubamba River by the untiring energy
of the ancient folk. On both sides of the valley the steep slopes
bear many remains of narrow terraces, some of which are still in
use. Above them are "temporales," fields of grain, resting like a
patch-work quilt on slopes so steep it seems incredible they could
be cultivated. Still higher up, their heads above the clouds, are
the jagged snow-capped peaks. The whole offers a marvelous picture,
rich in contrast, majestic in proportion. In Yucay once dwelt the Inca
Manco's oldest son, Sayri Tupac, after he had accepted the viceroy's
invitation to come under Spanish protection. Here he lived three years
and here, in 1560, he died an untimely death under circumstances
which led his brothers, Titu Cusi and Tupac Amaru, to think that
they would be safer in Uiticos. We spent the night in Urubamba,
the modern capital of the province, much favored by Peruvians of
to-day because of its abundant water supply, delightful climate,
and rich fruits. Cuzco, 11,000 feet, is too high to have charming
surroundings, but two thousand feet lower, in the Urubamba Valley,
there is everything to please the eye and delight the horticulturist.

Speaking of horticulturists reminds me of their enemies. Uru is the
Quichua word for caterpillars or grubs, pampa means flat land. Urubamba
is "flat-land-where-there-are-grubs-or-caterpillars." Had it been named
by people who came up from a warm region where insects abound, it would
hardly have been so denominated. Only people not accustomed to land
where caterpillars and grubs flourished would have been