ir
light seems to come entirely from the front door. The occupants are
operators of American sewing-machines who not only make clothing to
order, but always have on hand a large assortment of standard sizes and
patterns. In another arcade are the shops of those who specialize in
everything which appeals to the eye and the pocketbook of the arriero:
richly decorated halters, which are intended to avert the Evil Eye
from his best mules; leather knapsacks in which to carry his coca or
other valuable articles; cloth cinches and leather bridles; rawhide
lassos, with which he is more likely to make a diamond hitch than
to rope a mule; flutes to while away the weary hours of his journey,
and candles to be burned before his patron saint as he starts for some
distant village; in a word, all the paraphernalia of his profession.

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FIGURE

Map of Peru and view of Cuzco

From the "Speculum Orbis Terrarum," Antwerp, 1578.
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In order to learn more about the picturesque Quichuas who throng the
streets of Cuzco it was felt to be important to secure anthropometric
measurements of a hundred Indians. Accordingly, Surgeon Nelson set up
a laboratory in the Hotel Central. His subjects were the unwilling
victims of friendly gendarmes who went out into the streets with
orders to bring for examination only pure-blooded Quichuas. Most
of the Indians showed no resentment and were in the end pleased and
surprised to find themselves the recipients of a small silver coin
as compensation for loss of time.

One might have supposed that a large proportion of Dr. Nelson's
subjects would have claimed Cuzco as their native place, but this was
not the case. Actually fewer Indians came from the city itself than
from relatively small towns like Anta, Huaracondo, and Maras. This
may have been due to a number of causes. In the first place,
the gendarmes may have preferred to arrest strangers from distant
villages, who would submit more willingly. Secondly, the city folk
were presumably more likely to be in their shops attending to their
business or watching their wares in the plaza, an occupation which the
gendarmes could not interrupt. On the other hand it is also probably
true that the residents of Cuzco are of more mixed descent than those
of remote villages, where even to-day one cannot find more than two
or three individuals who speak Spanish. Furthermore, the attention
of the gendarmes might have been drawn more easily to the quain