7 pints.
Esprit de rose, 1 pint.
Essential oil, _i.e._ otto, of santal, 3 oz.
All those EXTRACTS, made by dissolving the otto in alcohol, are
nearly white, or at least only slightly tinted by the color of the oil
used. When a perfumer has to impart a delicate _odeur_ to a lady's
_mouchoir_, which in some instances costs "no end of money," and is an
object, at any cost, to retain unsullied, it behooves his reputation to
sell an article that will not stain a delicate white fabric. Now, when a
perfume is made in a direct manner from any wood or herb, as tinctures
are made, that is, by infusion in alcohol, there is obtained, besides
the odoriferous substance, a solution of coloring and extractive matter,
which is exceedingly detrimental to its fragrance, besides seriously
staining any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon; and for this
reason this latter method should never be adopted, except for use upon
silk handkerchiefs.
The odor of santal assimilates well with rose; and hence, prior to the
cultivation of rose-leaf geranium, it was used to adulterate otto of
roses; but is now but seldom used for that purpose.
By a "phonetic" error, santal is often printed "sandal," and "sandel."
SASSAFRAS.--Some of the perfumers of Germany use a tincture of
the wood of the _Laurus sassafras_ in the manufacture of hair-washes and
other nostrums; but as, in our opinion, it has rather a "physicky" smell
than flowery, we cannot recommend the German recipes. The _Eau
Athenienne_, notwithstanding, has some reputation as a hair-water, but
is little else than a weak tincture of sassafras.
SPIKE.--French oil of lavender, which is procured from the
_Lavandula spica_, is generally called oil of spike. (See Lavender.)
STORAX and TOLU are used in perfumery in the same way
as benzoin, namely, by solution in spirit as a tincture. An ounce of
tincture of storax, tolu, or benzoin, being added to a pound of any very
volatile perfume, gives a degree of permanence to it, and makes it last
longer on the handkerchief than it otherwise would: thus, when any
perfume is made by the solution of an otto in spirit, it is usual to add
to it a small portion of a substance which is less volatile, such as
extract of musk, extract of vanilla, ambergris, storax, tolu, orris,
vitivert, or benzoin; the manufacturer using his judgment and discretion
as to which of these materials are to be employed,
|