ed through deep snow to Zoar, which they reached after ten
laborious hours. English services are held for the settlers at this
station as well as at Hopedale, though they are more frequent at the
southern place owing to the visits of the crews from the Newfoundland
fishing schooners.
FROM ZOAR TO NAIN BETWEEN ISLANDS.
Our voyage from Zoar to Nain occupied just twelve hours. We left about
5.30 A.M., and our anchor went down again before 5.30 P.M. The day was
fine and warm, and the scenery changed continually. Often the way
seemed barred before us, but, as we sailed on, a narrow strait opened
to right or left, and as we neared Nain our voyage between the islands
became more and more interesting. Presently some Nain Eskimoes caught
sight of the "Harmony," and posted off to the station in their sailing
boat, which kept ahead the whole way. Two men came to meet us in their
kayaks, and paddled alongside for some time, their light skin boats
skimming over the water as easily as the flock of ducks which had just
crossed our bows. Passing the island Taktuk, a salute fired by the one
Eskimo visible was followed by such a concert of howls from his dogs
seated in a row on a rock as made us all laugh. Next the Kauk came in
view, a great rock looking like a skull, or, as its name implies, "a
forehead," a very recognizable landmark often anxiously looked for on
sledge journeys. Paul's Island, with its deep inlets, was to our
right, and now a good wind sent us forward past headland after
headland till Nain came out from behind the Suederhucke. First we could
see the Eskimo village, whose inhabitants were, as usual, firing their
guns and shouting; then the church came in sight, and the
mission-house with flag at the mast head; then the store and the
little pier, which, as we approached, was crowded with Eskimoes
singing, "Now let us praise the Lord."
THE FIRST EVENING AT NAIN.
[Illustration]
Nain was the third station visited on our voyage northward along the
bleak but grand coast of Labrador. Hopedale and Zoar had already been
left behind in the south; Okak, Hebron, and Ramah, all to the north of
Nain, had yet to be touched at in their turn. Each successive station
has its own distinctive features and so presents fresh interest to the
visitor. Nain, the oldest of all, is rich in associations with the
past as well as very interesting in the life, spiritual and temporal,
of the mission-house and the Eskimo dwel
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