ction of an ample rock. It is a large edifice, but not a handsome
one--the monks reserving their magnificence for their churches--but was
surrounded by a circuit of fortifications, which, when there was need,
were manned by the vassals of the convent in the style of the Feudal
system. This was in some degree the case at the present day. The Abbot,
a gentlemanlike and respectable-looking man, attended by several of his
monks, received us with the greatest politeness, and conducted us to the
building, where we saw two great sculptured vases, or more properly
sarcophagi, of [marble?], well carved in the antique style, and adorned
with the story of Meleager. They were in the shape of a large bath, and
found, I think, at Paestum. The old church had passed to decay about a
hundred years ago, when the present fabric was built; it is very
beautifully arranged, and worthy of the place, which is eminently
beautiful, and of the community, who are Benedictines--the most
gentlemanlike order in the Roman Church.

We were conducted to the private repertory of the chapel, which contains
a number of interesting deeds granted by sovereigns of the Grecian,
Norman, and even Saracen descent. One from Roger, king of Sicily,
extended His Majesty's protection to some half dozen men of consequence
whose names attested their Saracenism.

In all the society I have been since I commenced this tour, I chiefly
regretted on the present occasion the not having refreshed my Italian
for the purpose of conversation. I should like to have conversed with
the Churchmen very much, and they seem to have the same inclination, but
it is too late to be thought of, though I could read Italian well once.
The church might boast of a grand organ, with fifty-seven stops, all
which we heard played by the ingenious organist. We then returned to
Miss Whyte's for the evening, ate a mighty dinner, and battled cold
weather as we might.

In further remarks on Paestum I may say there is a city wall in
wonderful preservation, one of the gates of which is partly entire and
displays the figure of a Syren under the architrave, but the antiquity
of the sculpture is doubted, though not that of the inner part of the
gate--so at least thinks Sir William, our best authority on such
matters. Many antiquities have been, and many more probably will be,
discovered. Paestum is a place which adds dignity to the peddling trade
of the ordinary antiquarian.

_March_ 19.--This morning we s