part of the mountain, ascending by a
succession of zig-zags, which the French laid by scale straight up the
hill. The tower is situated upon an artificial eminence, worked to a
point and placed in a defensible position between two hills about the
same height, the access to which the defenders of the pass could
effectually prohibit.

Sir William Gell, whose knowledge of the antiquities of this country is
extremely remarkable, acquainted us with the history.

In the middle ages the pasturages on the slope of these hills,
especially on the other side, belonged to the rich republic of Amain,
who built this tower as an exploratory gazeeboo from which they could
watch the motions of the Saracens who were wont to annoy them with
plundering excursions; but after this fastness [was built] the people of
Amalfi usually defeated and chastised them. The ride over the opposite
side of the mountain was described as so uncommonly pleasant as made me
long to ride it with assistance of a pony. That, however, was
impossible. We arrived at a country house, near a large town situated in
a ravine or hollow, which was called La Cava from some concavities which
it exhibited.

We were received by Miss Whyte, an English lady who has settled at La
Cava, and she afforded us the warmest hospitality that is consistent
with a sadly cold chilling house. They may say what they like of the
fine climate of Naples--unquestionably they cannot say too much in its
favour, but yet when a day or two of cold weather does come, the
inhabitants are without the means of parrying the temporary inclemency,
which even a Scotsman would scorn to submit to. However, warm or cold,
to bed we went, and rising next morning at seven we left La Cava, and,
making something like a sharp turn backwards, but keeping nearer to the
Gulf of Salerno than in yesterday's journey, and nearer to its shore. We
had a good road towards Paestum, and in defiance of a cold drizzling day
we went on at a round pace. The country through which we travelled was
wooded and stocked with wild animals towards the fall of the hills, and
we saw at a nearer distance a large swampy plain, pastured by a
singularly bizarre but fierce-looking buffalo, though it might maintain
a much preferable stock. This palace of Barranco was anciently kept up
for the King's sport, but any young man having a certain degree of
interest is allowed to share in the chase, which it is no longer an
object to preserve. The gues