country, entirely covered with
lofty bamboos. From Gunong Raja he returned down Bencoolen River on a
bamboo raft to Bentiring, and reached Fort Marlborough on the 18th of
October. The other traveller, Mr. Charles Campbell, in a private letter
dated March 1802 (referring me, for more detailed information, to
journals which have not reached my hand), says, "We crossed the hills
nearly behind the Sugar-loaf, and entered the valley of Musi. Words
cannot do justice to the picturesque scenery of that romantic and
delightful country, locked in on all sides by lofty mountains, and
watered by the noble river here navigable for very large canoes, which,
after receiving the Lamatang and several other streams, forms the
Palembang. Directing our course behind the great hill of Sungei-lamo we
in three days discovered Labun, and crossed some considerable streams
discharging themselves into the river of Kattaun. Our object there being
completed we returned along the banks of the Musi nearly to the dusun of
Kalubat, at which place we struck into the woods, and, ascending the
mountain, reached towards evening a village high up on the Bencoolen
River. There is but a single range, and it is a fact that from the
navigable part of the Musi river to a place on that of Bencoolen where
rafts and sampans may be used is to the natives a walk of no more than
eight hours. Musi is populous, well cultivated, and the soil exceedingly
rich. The people are stout, healthy looking, and independent in their
carriage and manners, and were to us courteous and hospitable. They
acknowledge no superior authority, but are often insulted by predatory
parties from Palembang." These freebooters would perhaps call themselves
collectors of tribute. It is much to be regretted that little political
jealousies and animosities between the European powers whose influence
prevails on each side of the island prevent further discoveries of the
course of this considerable river.

CHAPTER 20.

THE COUNTRY OF THE BATTAS.
TAPPANULI-BAY.
JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR.
CASSIA-TREES.
GOVERNMENTS.
ARMS.
WARFARE.
TRADE.
FAIRS.
FOOD.
MANNERS.
LANGUAGE.
WRITING.
RELIGION.
FUNERALS.
CRIMES.
EXTRAORDINARY CUSTOM.

BATTAS.

One of the most considerable distinctions of people in the island, and by
many regarded as having the strongest claims to originality, is the
nation of the Battas (properly Batak), whose remarkable dissimilitude to
the other inhabitants, in the genius