"Nighted and dayed in Damascus town." [223]

59. To Tadmor.

Burton had scarcely got settled in Damascus before he expressed his
intention of visiting the historic Tadmor in the desert. It was an eight
days' journey, and the position of the two wells on the way was kept a
secret by Jane Digby's tribe, who levied blackmail on all visitors
to the famous ruins. The charge was the monstrous one of L250; but
Burton--at all times a sworn foe to cupidity--resolved to go without
paying. Says Mrs. Burton, "Jane Digby was in a very anxious state when
she heard this announcement, as she knew it was a death blow to a great
source of revenue to the tribe... She did all she could to dissuade us,
she wept over our loss, and she told us that we should never come back."
Finally the subtle lady dried her crocodile eyes and offered her "dear
friends" the escort of one of her Bedawin, that they might steer clear
of the raiders and be conducted more quickly to water, "if it existed."
Burton motioned to his wife to accept the escort, and Jane left the
house with ill-concealed satisfaction. The Bedawi [224] in due time
arrived, but not before he had been secretly instructed by Jane to lead
the Burtons into ambush whence they could be pounced upon by the tribe
and kept prisoners till ransomed. That, however, was no more than Burton
had anticipated; consequently as soon as the expedition was well on the
road he deprived the Bedawi of his mare and accoutrements, and retained
both as hostages until Damascus should be reached again. Appropriately
enough this occurred on April the First. [225] Success rewarded his
acuteness, for naturally the wells were found, and the travellers
having watered their camels finished the journey with comfort. Says Mrs.
Burton, "I shall never forget the imposing sight of Tadmor. There is
nothing so deceiving as distance in the desert.... A distant ruin stands
out of the sea of sand, the atmosphere is so clear that you think you
will reach it in half an hour; you ride all day and you never seem to
get any nearer to it." Arrived at Tadmor they found it to consist of
a few orchards, the imposing ruins, and a number of wretched huts
"plastered like wasps' nests within them." Of the chief ruin, the Temple
of the Sun, one hundred columns were still standing and Burton, who
set his men to make excavations, found some statues, including one of
Zenobia. The party reached Damascus again after an absence of about a
mon