of their faces, induced
me perfectly to concur in. Over the chimney-piece, an inscription was
painted in letters of about a foot long, "Hier verkoopt man Bier,"
implying, what a very cursory observation might have conveyed to any
one, even on the evidence of his nose,--that beer was a very attainable
fluid in the establishment. The floor was sanded, and the walls
white-washed, save where some pictorial illustrations of Flemish habits
were displayed in black chalk, or the smoke of a candle.
As I stood, uncertain whether to advance or retreat, a large portly
Fleming, with a great waistcoat, made of the skin of some beast, eyed
me steadfastly from head to foot, and then, as if divining my
embarrassment, beckoned me to approach, and pointed to a seat on the
bench beside him. I was not long in availing myself of his politeness,
and before a half an hour elapsed, found myself with a brass can of
beer, about eighteen inches in height, before me; while I was smoking
away as though I had been born within the "dykes," and never knew the
luxury of dry land.
Around the table sat some seven or eight others, whose phlegmatic look
and sententious aspect, convinced me, they were Flemings. At the far
end, however, was one, whose dark eyes, flashing beneath heavy shaggy
eyebrows, huge whiskers, and bronzed complexion, distinguished him
sufficiently from the rest. He appeared, too, to have something of
respect paid him, inasmuch as the others invariably nodded to him,
whenever they lifted their cans to their mouths. He wore a low fur cap
on his head, and his dark blue frock was trimmed also with fur, and
slashed with a species of braiding, like an undress uniform.
Unlike the rest, he spoke a great deal, not only to his own party,
but maintaining a conversation with various others through the
room--sometimes speaking French, then Dutch, and occasionally changing
to German, or Italian, with all which tongues he appeared so familiar,
that I was fairly puzzled to what country to attribute him.
I could mark at times that he stole a sly glance over, towards where I
was sitting, and, more than once, I thought I observed him watching what
effect his voluble powers as a linguist, was producing upon me. At last
our eyes met, he smiled politely, and taking up the can before him, he
bowed, saying, "A votre sante, monsieur."
I acknowledged the compliment at once, and seizing the opportunity,
begged to know, of what land so accomplished a li
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